Not the only way, but the way we've done it that works. An important word: what you find here is an IMCOMPLETE record of the process, created for a student who was unable to complete his boat at school. As time goes on, I may fill in steps, but this is by no means a full set of directions. When it comes out soon, I recommend the book Building Skin-on-Frame, Double-Paddle Canoes by Hilary Russell,of Sheffield, MA.

Order of Operations

  • Creating the Stem-Knee assembly
  • Attaching Knee to Keelson
  • Fill four spaces in gunwale for thwart attachment
  • Sand gunwales and breasthooks
  • Attach thwarts
  • Fit, drill gunwale rub rails
  • Assemble floorboards
  • Shape nose and tail for brass rub rails
  • Coat all wooden parts with oil or varnish: frame, rubs and floorboards
  • Skin the boat
  • Shrink the skin
  • Skin coating
  • Attach all rubrails, wooden and metal
  • Last odds and ends

Notes on related subjects

4.15.2010

Coating the Frames

Oil or varnish?

















I have made these boats using only water-based polyurethane to seal them. This has the advantage of slightly lower cost, water clean-up and lower V.O.C.s. Dries quick, too. My first boat was done with this, and its has stood up very well.

More recently, we have been using Waterlox, a commercially available, tung-oil and resin wood finish. I like to use two coats of the 'origianal' type, followed by a top coat of the marine version of the same product, which, rather than soaking in and filling the grain, leaves a more varnish-like gloss coating on the surface. It takes a while to thoroughly dry, particularly if there are thick spots or drips around the lashing, etc. Brush it out as thin as you can, and give it several days to dry, preferably in the sun.

The most efficient way to do this is to have the boat frame, the two rub-rails (for the gunwales) and the assembled floor boards all done, so you can finish them all at the same time.  With a few home-made 'pin boards', it is possible to coat both sides at the same time.