Not the only way, but the way we've done it that works. An important word: what you find here is an IMCOMPLETE record of the process, created for a student who was unable to complete his boat at school. As time goes on, I may fill in steps, but this is by no means a full set of directions. When it comes out soon, I recommend the book Building Skin-on-Frame, Double-Paddle Canoes by Hilary Russell,of Sheffield, MA.

Order of Operations

  • Creating the Stem-Knee assembly
  • Attaching Knee to Keelson
  • Fill four spaces in gunwale for thwart attachment
  • Sand gunwales and breasthooks
  • Attach thwarts
  • Fit, drill gunwale rub rails
  • Assemble floorboards
  • Shape nose and tail for brass rub rails
  • Coat all wooden parts with oil or varnish: frame, rubs and floorboards
  • Skin the boat
  • Shrink the skin
  • Skin coating
  • Attach all rubrails, wooden and metal
  • Last odds and ends

Notes on related subjects

4.16.2010

Attaching the Thwarts

Now that the gunwales are cleaned up, you have to drill some holes in them!  Only four. Remember, the rear thwart is 13 inces behind the center of the boat, and the front one is 39 inches in front of the rear thwart.  The ash filler pieces are installed. 

Now you need to fit and cut the thwarts to their finished length.  They should fall a bit short of the gunwale on either end; the canvas should not touch them when it is on the boat. In the photo below, you are looking at the outside of the boat. That end should be cut at a compound angle: parallel to the outer gunwale.  You can see the pencil line in the picture - the one one top is easy, just trace the gunwale.  The vertical line on the thwart runs along a line from the guwale to the first stringer.  This means it will slant in a bit at its bottom edge.  The drawing below may show this better (angled face 2). After you draw the lines, you want to cut a bit (1/8") inside of the lines, so the canvas of the boat will not touch the end of the wood.

















You can also see, in the drawing, the upper angled surface.  This is created so that the thwart will fit more solidly to the undrside of the gunwale, which is slightly flared outward.  This is about an inch long and takes off about 1/8" at the end.  It can be done with a sander,or a sharp plane.


















You need to drill a hole through each filler piece, where the thwart will be bolted to the gunwale.  Drill parallel to the gunwale side (imagine poking the drill through that space if the filler wasn't there).

The finished attachment looks like this (below).  The clamps marks, by the way, will be covered by the canvas and rubrails.