Sarum Skin-boat How-to

Not the only way, but the way we've done it that works. An important word: what you find here is an IMCOMPLETE record of the process, created for a student who was unable to complete his boat at school. As time goes on, I may fill in steps, but this is by no means a full set of directions. When it comes out soon, I recommend the book Building Skin-on-Frame, Double-Paddle Canoes by Hilary Russell,of Sheffield, MA.

Order of Operations

  • Creating the Stem-Knee assembly
  • Attaching Knee to Keelson
  • Fill four spaces in gunwale for thwart attachment
  • Sand gunwales and breasthooks
  • Attach thwarts
  • Fit, drill gunwale rub rails
  • Assemble floorboards
  • Shape nose and tail for brass rub rails
  • Coat all wooden parts with oil or varnish: frame, rubs and floorboards
  • Skin the boat
  • Shrink the skin
  • Skin coating
  • Attach all rubrails, wooden and metal
  • Last odds and ends

Notes on related subjects

4.19.2010

Floorboards

The floorboards are constructed separately, from strips of ash, 1/4" thick by 1" wide. Actually, you could have a lot of variation in these - 3 wider pieces instead of 5 narrow. Whatever prevents you from sticking a foot or paddle thought the open grid of the boat frame and provides a platform to sit on. We usually place the three cross-pieces (1) under the paddler, (2) near front thwart, and (3) in the middle. Make sure they will fit between the ribs of the boat, so they will lay flat.


The ends are left relatively unsupported so that they can bend up and twist a little to conform to the narrower boat ends. The pieces are rounded on the upper edges for comfort and the tips are rounded off a little - no sharp edges or points.


The pieces are secured to each other by pre-drilling holes and using copper tacks driven through and 'peened' over on back side.  They are glued with waterproof glue at the same time.